Coco Chanel exhibition reveals fashion designer was part of French resistance

Previously unseen documents to go on display at V&A alongside evidence of her collusion with Nazis

A major retrospective of Coco Chanel has unearthed evidence that the fashion designer was a documented member of the French resistance. The previously unseen documents will go on display, along with contradictory evidence that she operated as a Nazi agent.

The documents relating to Chanel’s activities in wartime Paris strike a serious note within what is likely to be the most glamorous exhibition of the year, with more than 50 tweed suits – including a bubblegum pink set belonging to Lauren Bacall – on view at Gabrielle Chanel: Fashion Manifesto, when it opens at the V&A in London on 16 September.

“We couldn’t do a show about Chanel and not address her wartime record,” said the curator, Oriole Cullen, who has expanded a show first created at the Palais Galliera in Paris in 2020 with a new curation that delves more deeply into Chanel’s links with Britain as well as her wartime activities.

Previously unseen documents highlight the name “Gabrielle AKA Coco Chanel” on a list of 400,000 people whose part in the resistance is backed up by official records. “We have verification from the French government, including a document from 1957, which confirms her active participation in the resistance,” said Cullen.

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Chinese economy out of deflation but faces threat of relapse

Slow domestic consumption, high youth unemployment and decline in exports among factors dragging on post-Covid recovery

China’s consumer price index rebounded in August as the world’s second-largest economy emerged from deflation, official data released on Saturday suggested, despite sluggish domestic consumption that is complicating its post-Covid economic recovery.

Last month’s CPI, the main gauge of inflation, rose 0.1% year on year, the national statistics bureau said.

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Russia-Ukraine war at a glance: what we know on day 563 of the invasion

Russian attack on Ukrainian police building kills one and wounds dozens; Zelenskiy says Putin ‘killed Prigozhin’; British military to monitor Black Sea

A Russian missile slammed into a police building in the central Ukrainian city of Kryvyi Rih on Friday, killing a policeman and injuring many more people, the interior minister said. The administrative building was destroyed and rescue workers pulled several people out of the rubble after the attack on Volodymyr Zelenskiy’s home town, Ihor Klymenko said on Telegram. Regional governor Serhiy Lysak said about 40 people had been injured.

A Russian airstrike killed three people and injured four others in the village of Odradokamianka in Kherson, southern Ukraine, on Friday, Klymenko said.

Volodymyr Zelenskiy has said Russian ruler Vladimir Putin is responsible for the death of mercenary leader Yevgeny Prigozhin. The Ukrainian president, who provided no evidence to back up his assertion over Prigozhin’s death in a plane crash with his top lieutenants last month, said at a conference in Kyiv on Friday: “The fact that he [Putin] killed Prigozhin – at least that’s the information we all have, not any other kind – that also speaks to his rationality, and about the fact that he is weak.”

British military and security services will monitor the Black Sea in a bid to deter Russia from striking cargo ships that are transporting grain from Ukraine to developing countries, the UK government has announced.

The first 10 Leopard 1 tanks donated by Denmark, Germany and the Netherlands have arrived in Ukraine and more are on their way, Denmark’s armed forces said on Friday.

Ukraine’s foreign ministry condemned “sham elections” being staged by Russia in occupied Ukrainian territories on Friday, saying they were “worthless” and would have no legal standing. The Russian regional elections include four Ukrainian regions Moscow does not fully control – Donetsk, Luhansk, Zaporizhzhia and Kherson.

The US secretary of state, Antony Blinken, also described the voting in Russian-occupied areas of Ukraine as “sham elections” and said they were “illegitimate”.

Volodymyr Zelenskiy said “slower” arms shipments from western countries were threatening his counteroffensive and called for more powerful and long-range weapons. The Ukrainian president also said his country’s allies had eased up on sanctions imposed on Russia and called for a renewed drive to impose further punitive measures on Moscow.

Ukrainian officials said air defences shot down 16 of the 20 drones fired by Russia over Thursday night. Fourteen 14 drones had been brought down over Odesa region and two more over the southern region of Mykolaiv, the southern military command said on Friday.

Russia “must stop” its blockade of Ukrainian seaports after pulling out of the UN and Turkey-mediated deal to ensure grain shipments, the European Council president, Charles Michel, said on Friday.

Cuban authorities have arrested 17 people in connection with what they described as a network to recruit Cuban nationals to fight for Russia in Ukraine. The head of criminal investigations for Cuba’s interior ministry, César Rodríguez, told state media that at least three of the 17 people arrested were part of recruitment efforts inside the island country.

Ukraine’s former defence minister has said Vladimir Putin remains determined to destroy Ukraine entirely and to “assimilate” its citizens into the Russian Federation. Oleksii Reznikov warned his western counterparts that negotiations with Moscow would not bring peace.

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Rescue efforts stepped up after deadly floods in central Greece

Greek PM tours crisis-hit area amid fears death toll could rise as water levels continue to rise in some places

Helicopters and lifeboats have been deployed to rescue hundreds of villagers stranded by flood waters in central Greece after rainstorms left at least 10 people dead.

Touring the crisis-hit area of Thessaly, 185 miles north of Athens, Greece’s prime minister, Kyriakos Mitsotakis, vowed to do “whatever is humanly possibly” to assist residents in areas deluged by torrential rain that also hit neighbouring Bulgaria and Turkey. A total of 22 people have died across the three countries since Tuesday.

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Cuba arrests 17 over alleged recruitment of Cubans to fight for Russia in Ukraine

Havana is ally of Moscow but foreign ministry states: ‘Cuba is not part of the war in Ukraine’

Cuban authorities have arrested 17 people in connection with what they described as a network to recruit Cuban nationals to fight for Russia in Ukraine.

The head of criminal investigations for Cuba’s interior ministry, César Rodríguez, told state media that at least three of the 17 people arrested were part of recruitment efforts inside the island country.

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Biden renews effort to woo India’s Modi in talks before G20 summit

Meeting in Delhi overshadowed by press freedom questions as US journalists kept away

Joe Biden took fresh steps on Friday to lure India’s prime minister, Narendra Modi, into an alliance designed to contain China, at a bilateral meeting in Delhi where the pair struck a series of commercial and defence deals covering remote-controlled aircraft, semiconductors and quantum computing.

However, the question of press freedom also dominated the agenda on the eve of the full G20 summit as journalists were blocked from covering the event. Before the bilateral at the prime minister’s residence, the US press corps, used to being given privileged access to the president, were told to remain outside in a van, out of eyesight of the two leaders.

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Deadly humid heatwaves to spread rapidly as climate warms – study

Small rise in global temperatures would affect hundreds of millions of people and could cause a sharp rise in deaths

Life-threatening periods of high heat and humidity will spread rapidly across the world with only a small increase in global temperatures, a study has found, which could cause a sharp acceleration in the number of deaths resulting from the climate crisis.

The extremes, which can be fatal to healthy people within six hours, could affect hundreds of millions of people unused to such conditions. As a result, heat deaths could rise quickly unless serious efforts to prepare populations were undertaken urgently, the researcher said.

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Sound of Freedom film producer plots long-shot bid for Mexican presidency

Eduardo Verástegui, who also acts in movie embraced by QAnon followers, files paperwork for 2024 election

The producer of a surprise US box office hit widely embraced by followers of the extremist Q-Anon conspiracy theory is attempting a long-shot run for president in Mexico.

Shortly before a deadline late on Thursday, Eduardo Verástegui, producer of Sound of Freedom, filed paperwork to run as an independent candidate in the June 2024 election.

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Mark Meadows loses bid to transfer Georgia election interference case to federal court – as it happened

Meadows faces two felony charges, including racketeering and solicitation of a violation of oath by a public officer

Lindsey Graham’s name appeared early as Donald Trump’s attempts to stay in the White House began shortly after his re-election defeat in November 2020.

Georgia secretary of state Brad Raffensperger told the press that the South Carolina senator had called him to ask if it was possible to throw away mail-in ballots in counties crucial to Joe Biden’s win in Georgia. From the Guardian’s Lauren Gambino’s report at the time:

Georgia’s secretary of state, Brad Raffensperger, has said that Senator Lindsey Graham asked whether it was possible to invalidate legally cast ballots after Donald Trump was narrowly defeated in the state.

In an interview with the Washington Post, Raffensperger said that his fellow Republican, the chairman of the Senate judiciary committee, questioned him about the state’s signature-matching law and asked whether political bias might have played a role in counties where poll workers accepted higher rates of mismatched signatures. According to Raffensperger, Graham then asked whether he had the authority to toss out all mail-in ballots in these counties.

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More than 150 rescuers join effort to free ill American from Turkish cave

In video brought to surface, Mark Dickey says he was ‘very close to the edge’ after falling ill 1km down

Local and international cave rescue teams are poised to begin an attempt to evacuate a sick American caver from a deep underground system in Turkey, in what experts are suggesting may be one of the most complex operations of its kind.

Turkish-led rescuers have said the operation to bring up 40-year-old Mark Dickey by stretcher could take up to four days, and will require constant monitoring of his health.

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Russia-Ukraine war: death of Prigozhin shows Putin is weak, says Zelenskiy – as it happened

This blog is now closed, you can read more of our Ukraine war coverage here

Ukraine’s air force shot down 16 drones launched by Russia overnight in the Odesa and Mykolaiv regions, regional and military officials said on Friday.

Oleh Kiper, the Odesa regional governor, wrote on Telegram:

During the night the Russian terrorists attacked the Odesa region for the fifth time this week.

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India, US and Saudi Arabia in talks on rail and ports deal linking Gulf and south Asia

Talks include Europe and UAE as Joe Biden flies to Delhi with aim of rivalling China’s Belt and Road

The US, Saudi Arabia, India and other nations are discussing a possible infrastructure deal that could reconfigure trade between the Gulf and south Asia, linking Middle Eastern countries by railways and connecting to India by port, according to US officials aware of the conversations.

The talks, which have also included the United Arab Emirates and Europe, may or may not yield a concrete result in time for an announcement on the sidelines of this week’s G20 leaders’ meeting, the officials said.

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China reportedly extends iPhone ban to more workers as tensions with US rise

Apple shares fall as local government and state-owned firms latest to face restrictions on devices at work

China’s government has reportedly expanded its ban of iPhones to local government workers and state-owned companies, a day after it emerged central government employees were forbidden from bringing the devices to work.

Several agencies had begun instructing employees not to bring iPhones to work and the ban was expected to be further extended, Bloomberg reported. Nikkei reported at least one state-owned company had told its employees that anyone working with trade secrets could not bring their iPhones, Apple Watches or AirPods into work from next month.

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UK decides not to call for release of Briton held in India on terror charges

Public demand for Jagtar Singh Johal to be set free is ‘not in his best interests’, says Asia minister

The UK government has decided not to call for the release of a British man held in an Indian jail for five years, saying it would not be in his best interests.

There have been repeated calls for Britain to do more to secure the release of Jagtar Singh Johal, who claims to have been tortured and forced to make a confession. He faces terrorism charges and the first stages of his trial have just started after repeated delays caused by disputes over evidence.

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Chinese law to ban comments that harm China’s ‘feelings’ prompts concern

Legal experts and bloggers say proposed crimes could be used arbitrarily and lead to more censorship

Proposed changes to a Chinese public security law to criminalise comments, clothing or symbols that “undermine the spirit” or “harm the feelings” of China have triggered the concern of legal experts, who say the amendments could be used arbitrarily.

The changes were first made public last week as part of a mandatory “soliciting opinion” process, as concerns mount about the increasingly authoritarian and nationalistic rule of China’s president, Xi Jinping.

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North Korea launches new ‘tactical nuclear attack submarine’

Kim Jong-un heralds new chapter for navy but South Korea says vessel seems not to be operational

North Korea has launched its first “tactical nuclear attack submarine”, state media reported, although the South Korean military said the vessel might not be operational.

The North Korean leader, Kim Jong-un, presided over the unveiling ceremony on Wednesday, saying the sub was part of a “push forward with the nuclear weaponisation of the navy”, according to the state news agency KCNA.

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Twitter ‘unfit’ for banking over alleged complicity in Saudi rights abuses

Lawyers for family say Saudi government took brother’s data in breach and ‘arrested, tortured, and imprisoned’ him and others

The company formerly known as Twitter is “unfit” to hold banking licenses because of its alleged “intentional complicity” with human rights violations in Saudi Arabia and treatment of users’ personal data, according to an open letter sent to federal and state banking regulators that was signed by a law firm representing a Saudi victim’s family.

The allegations by lawyers representing Areej al-Sadhan, whose brother Abdulrahman was one of thousands of Saudis whose confidential personal information was obtained by Saudi agents posing as Twitter employees in 2014-15, comes as Twitter Payments LLC, a subsidiary of X (the company formerly known as Twitter), is in the process of applying for money-transmitter licenses across the US.

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Mali jihadists kill dozens in twin attacks amid growing Islamist threat

Group affiliated with al-Qaida target army base and Timbuktu river boat as violence surges in region

Al-Qaida-linked militants have killed at least 64 people in twin attacks on an army base and a crowded passenger boat on the Niger River in northern Mali.

Extremists from the Jama’at Nusrat al-Islam wal Muslimin (JNIM) appear to have targeted the Timbuktu boat on the river and an army position at Bamba, in the northern Gao region, with “a provisional toll of 49 civilians and 15 soldiers killed”, according to a government statement.

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Weather tracker: Omega block brings torrential rain to Greece and Spain

Europe-wide formation is partly responsible for Storm Daniel, while the north of the continent has high temperatures

An Omega block has been in place over Europe this week, leading to some extreme weather for many. An Omega block is a synoptic setup consisting of a high-pressure region sandwiched between two low-pressure regions, creating a shape resembling the Greek letter omega.

Storm Daniel developed over the Ionian Sea partly due to this setup, causing devastating flooding across central and eastern Greece. The region’s warm seas at this time of year also helped produce the moisture needed for this storm.

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‘Goal is destruction of Ukraine’: ex-defence minister warns west of Putin’s aim

Oleksii Reznikov urges unity against Russia ‘to save this world from catastrophe of world war three’

Ukraine’s former defence minister has warned his western counterparts that negotiations with Moscow will not bring peace, and that Vladimir Putin remains determined to destroy Ukraine entirely and to “assimilate” its citizens into the Russian Federation.

In an article for the Guardian, Oleksii Reznikov says any “deal” with the Kremlin would not end the conflict. “Russia demands the recognition of the occupied territories of Ukraine as its territory in exchange for the end of the war,” he writes.

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