Steven Fuller has been the ‘winterkeeper’ at Yellowstone for 49 years. In that time, he has captured the breathtaking natural phenomena and the wildlife that exist there through all the seasons
Continue reading...Category Archives: Travel
How one man’s love of isolation put an Italian ghost town on the map
Abandoned hamlet’s last remaining resident is now its unofficial guide. Our writer joins him for a tour
Giuseppe Spagnuolo wakes up at about 6am each day, eats the leftovers of the previous night’s dinner for breakfast, greets the stray cats he calls his “security guards” and clambers down the steps of his crumbling home to splash his face with water from the fountain in the square. Occasionally, he walks up to the next village, if his “aches and pains” allow, for coffee in the bar.
For 25 years, Spagnuolo has been the only inhabitant in Roscigno Vecchia, a long-abandoned hamlet 400m up a mountain in the Cilento area of Italy’s southern Campania region. “If you’ve experienced the school of life like I have, then you can easily live this way,” the 74-year-old said, sitting in front of the fire in his kitchen, which is cluttered with pots, pans, bottles of wine, tinned tomatoes, cheese and hanging salamis.
Continue reading...Lockdown lifestyles: how has Covid changed lives in the UK?
Nearly two years after the first lockdown was implemented, legal restrictions related to coronavirus are finally being lifted. Here we chart what has changed in people’s lives
It’s nearly two years since the prime minister, Boris Johnson, announced the first national Covid lockdown and, for many Britons, life feels close to normal.
As of Thursday, there are no longer any restrictions in England – no legal requirement to wear masks or to self-isolate after a positive Covid test. But have our lives changed in other ways that will outlive the pandemic? Have our habits changed for good?
Continue reading...I took a trip to Scotland’s ‘secret coast’ – and found a quiet haven roaring back to life
The scenic Cowal peninsula west of Glasgow is once again attracting holidaymakers with its mix of unspoiled nature, community ventures and cool places to stay
The remote Cowal peninsula, extending into the Firth of Clyde, is not the sort of place you’d expect to find artisan coffee roasters, outdoor infinity pools and modern outdoor sculpture. Take it from me: my mum was born here, in the faded Victorian resort of Dunoon. Outside shinty circles – those familiar with the local hockey-like game - “the secret coast” is little known, even in Scotland.
But a spotlight shone briefly on the village of Tighnabruaich last November, when artist David Blair’s vaulting 20-metre-long, six-metre-high Ark of Argyll – designed to raise awareness of the climate emergency – was visited by delegates to COP26. I’d heard about other new ventures breathing life into Cowal, so turned away from the Scotland of queueing campervans on Loch Lomond and went to investigate, with my 10-year-old daughter in tow.
Continue reading...‘Today we rejoined the world’: hugs, tears and Vegemite as Australia reopens international borders
Emotional scenes at Sydney airport as families, friends and lovers reunite after 704 days of Covid restrictions
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There were tears, DJs, Vegemite and drag queens as families, friends and lovers reunited at Sydney airport after the resumption of all international travel to Australia.
While a number of expert bodies including the US Centers for Disease Control and Prevention and the European Council have warned against travel to Australia due to soaring Covid-19 case numbers over summer, the federal government has vowed to keep the borders open.
Continue reading...A local’s guide to Tallinn: the best fishburgers, speakeasies and Soviet-era art
From submarine art hubs to cool bars and the best fish and chips, design chief Tiia Vihand delights in Estonia’s super-cool capital
Don’t miss Anno, near the cruise terminal, where a husband-and-wife team serves creative dishes made with Baltic ingredients. The tasting menu isn’t too expensive and Erno (the husband) suggests inventive wine pairings. In summer, try to get a seat in the beautiful backyard.
Continue reading...Storm Eunice: tens of thousands still without power in UK
Widespread disruption to services continuing in aftermath of worst storm in 32 years that has led to at least four deaths
Tens of thousands were still without power and travel continued to be disrupted on Saturday as the cleanup effort after record-breaking deadly Storm Eunice threatened to be hampered by more weather warnings.
Friday’s storm brought record-breaking winds to the UK and Ireland, and killed at least four, leaving a trail of damage and destruction in its wake.
Continue reading...Wildland: inside the Scottish glen where nature has been set free
Rewilding has become a mantra in one Cairngorms glen – but some see initiatives to restore its forestland as a threat
Glen Feshie is one of the magnificent valleys on the north-west side of the Cairngorm massif where the forest has been released from the tyranny of grouse and deer. During the deer-stalking centuries of the 1800s and 1900s, there were 50 deer per square kilometre. Now there are one or two, and the critically endangered capercaillie are coming back. This is the place, I’ve heard, to look for the natural treeline in Scotland.
I arrive in the evening, the day before midsummer, and pitch my tent by the river. Scotland’s right to roam allows wild camping to an extent those south of the border can only dream of. The brown water is dark in the depths under the bridge, and cold. In the still-bright sunlight I walk up the valley and come to a spot where the path widens and a vista of sheer grey hills opens out. This was the setting for The Monarch of the Glen, a famous painting by Landseer of a princely 12-point stag framed by the crags above the valley.
Continue reading...Breaking the ice: one man’s epic journey from Togo to Greenland
The warm living room of Tété-Michel Kpomassie’s otherwise neat Parisian home has a coffee table in the middle of it piled high with keepsakes – a mountain of black and white pictures, letters and handwritten diaries. It’s an archive of one remarkable man’s intrepidly adventurous and unconventional life to date. Balanced on top of the overloaded files and folders sits a tattered book, its pages faded. On its cover is a portrait of an Inuit in a sealskin jacket, standing next to an icy shore. The title reads Les Esquimaux du Groenland à l’Alaska (The Eskimos from Greenland to Alaska). It’s a 1947 work of nonfiction authored by French anthropologist Robert Gessain.
Decades may have passed since the day Kpomassie first set his teenage eyes upon this image in his native Togo, but the 80-year-old remembers the precise moment as if it had happened just minutes before. How could he not? What he found inside has, since that day, consumed him entirely, shaping every chapter of his own story. He ran away from home at 16 to embark on an epic cross-continental mission that delivered him to Greenland, the world’s northernmost country. He was the first African man to set foot there. The adventure resulted in a travelogue, return visits and countless speaking invitations, and, more recently, a rather acrimonious divorce. Now, his very own sealskin jacket hangs by the door to his home in pride of place.
Continue reading...Bucket, spade and a pile of red tape: UK travellers warned about Covid rule traps
Tourists who had their jabs more than 270 days ago need a booster to enter France, Spain and Denmark
Travellers have been warned to check their half-term holiday plans to make sure they meet Covid vaccination rules when travelling to EU destinations as a growing number of countries impose new restrictions.
France joined Spain and Denmark last week in requiring anyone who completed their vaccination jabs more than 270 days ago to have a booster to enter the country – or be considered unvaccinated. Austria requires boosters after 180 days.
Continue reading...A local’s guide to Cádiz, Spain: ancient sites, beach bars and great tapas
Dancer Pilar Gil on where to eat, dance and take a sunset stroll in one of Europe’s oldest cities
The Mercado Central de Abastos is the heart of Cádiz and where we locals go to buy our fresh fish, seafood, fruit and vegetables. It also has a lot of cafes where you can order anything from fried fish to an empanada. My favourites are Lady Papa’s, which serves traditional tapas dishes, and a vegan stall called Las Niñas Veganas – it’s not easy to find vegan or gluten-free food in Cádiz, so this is special.
Continue reading...UK scraps Covid testing after arrival for double-vaccinated travellers
Requirement to take lateral flow test will end from 4am on 11 February, cheered by airlines as a ‘landmark’
Coronavirus testing for double-vaccinated travellers arriving in the UK will be scrapped from 4am on 11 February.
In a boost for travel firms and families planning trips abroad, eligible passengers will no longer have to take a post-arrival lateral flow test (LFT). The change will save families about £100 a trip. The industry body Airlines UK said it was a “landmark day”.
Continue reading...Covid news live: WHO recommends lifting international travel bans, says proof of vaccination not necessarily needed
Blanket travel bans ineffective against Omicron spread, WHO says; Austria to introduce national vaccine lottery to encourage people to get jabs
- PM announces end to all Omicron Covid restrictions in England
- Czech folk singer dies after deliberately contracting Covid
- Increased Covid risk ‘trade-off’ in reopening Australian schools
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- Boris Johnson, Covid and the UK – latest updates
Hong Kong will likely suspend face-to-face teaching in secondary schools from 24 January, local media reports.
The city’s Education Bureau made the announcement on Thursday, because of a rising number of coronavirus infections in several schools.
Continue reading...EU could suspend Vanuatu visa-free travel over ‘golden passports’ scheme
EU states set to vote on proposal after commission found deficiencies including ‘the granting of citizenship to applicants listed in Interpol’s databases’
The European Commission has proposed suspending a visa-free travel arrangement with Vanuatu due to concerns about the Pacific nation’s controversial “golden passports” scheme.
The proposed suspension, which still needs to be voted on by EU states, would prevent all holders of passports issued as of 25 May 2015 – when Vanuatu started issuing a substantial number of passports in exchange for investment – from travelling to the EU without a visa.
Continue reading...France poised to lift blanket ban on UK travellers ‘by end of the week’
Skiing holidays could soon be given the green light, following the ease of travel restrictions in the ‘next few days’
British skiers could soon be able to return to French slopes after an announcement that France is due to lift its blanket ban on non-essential travel from the UK.
The French government’s official spokesman, Gabriel Attal, said after a weekly cabinet meeting on Wednesday that Paris would ease travel restrictions from the UK to France in the next few days.
Continue reading...22 places to go in 2022: holidays we’re dreaming of this year
From hiking the Highlands to vintage train journeys, our travel writers pick the breaks on their wishlists
Disconnect on the impeccably green island of Eigg
Continue reading...France suspends rule denying British residents of other EU countries transit
Government says border officials will show tolerance toward those who had gone back to UK for Christmas
The French government has suspended a new rule that prevented British nationals legally resident in other EU countries from travelling through France to reach their homes, a move that caused confusion for thousands of travellers.
Border officials would “show tolerance” in order to “allow these nationals to transit through France to reach their residence in a country of the European Union after the Christmas and New Year period”, the interior ministry said in a statement. It came as Germany also relaxed rules for British visitors.
Continue reading...Air travel in and out of UK slumps by 71% in 2021 amid pandemic
Report from aviation analytics firm Cirium shows domestic flights were down by almost 60%
Air travel in and out of the UK slumped by 71% in 2021 as the second year of the Covid-19 crisis took its toll on international flying, according to a report.
Just over 406,000 international flights operated from the UK up to 22 December this year compared with almost 1.4m in 2019 before the pandemic struck and travel restrictions were imposed, the aviation analytics firm Cirium said. UK domestic flights were found to have declined by almost 60%.
Continue reading...England hospital Covid admissions highest since February; France announces new curbs – as it happened
No walk-in PCR tests available in England for a few hours due to ‘high demand’; French PM announces new measures
- No new Covid restrictions in England before new year
- Germany toughens restrictions as Omicron variant takes hold
- See all our coronavirus coverage
Queensland has detected 784 new Covid-19 cases but the health system is coping, state premier Annastacia Palaszczuk has said.
Quarantine and testing policies are being reviewed and rapid antigen tests may be introduced for some people within 48 hours to take pressure of testing facilities, AAP reports.
I don’t want people to be alarmed by that, the real issue here is what is the impact it is having on individuals in hospitals?
We are not seeing any massive impacts on our hospitals, which is really good news.
Continue reading...Covid live news: 1.7 million people in UK had coronavirus last week; hundreds of Christmas flights cancelled
ONS figures are highest on record so far; Christmas for many in disarray as US and Australian airlines say flight crews hit by Covid
- Government plans UK-wide Covid booster alert to mobile phones
- Getting booster follows ‘teaching of Jesus Christ’, says Boris Johnson
- Chinese officials face punishment over Covid lockdown in Xian
- Locked-out New Zealanders outraged at visa scheme for rich foreigners
Here’s a story that echoes the cancellation of flights happening over the US.
Thousands of Australians have had their domestic flights cancelled in the hours leading up to Christmas, as frontline staff were ordered to test and isolate amid a rise in Covid cases.
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