Donatella Versace defied expectations to become a fashion icon of her own

When she took over after her brother Gianni’s murder, few expected her to last 27 years and become a household name

When Donatella Versace took over the house of Versace in the aftermath of her brother Gianni’s murder, most observers privately assumed that her reign would be no more than a postscript. The bottle-blond younger sister, with no formal training and a drug addiction that was the fashion industry’s worst kept secret, was seen as a sentimental appointment by a shell-shocked family.

She proved everyone wrong. Versace is now defined as much by Donatella as by Gianni. She steps down from designing after 27 years as an icon in her own right, one of the most successful female designers in modern fashion history. Sober for 20 years, she has steered Versace to become a global household name, valued at $2bn (£1.6bn) when it was sold to Capri Holdings six and a half years ago.

Continue reading...

Skin in the game: mink coat at ethical fashion show fuels sustainability debate

Eco-concerns upturn moral battle over fur as quiet luxury gives way to ‘boom boom’ looks at Paris fashion week

Gabriela Hearst is an ethical fashion designer, with sustainability at the heart of her brand. And she wants to sell you a mink coat.

Hearst’s Paris fashion week show included a coat, jacket and stole made from vintage real fur. “We bought all these old mink coats in Italy, and pieced them together,” she said after her show.

Continue reading...

Sarah Burton makes fresh but understated debut for Givenchy in Paris

Former Alexander McQueen protege’s show a major fashion moment as it is first by a new female creative director

The obvious place to start at Givenchy would be with Audrey Hepburn, but Sarah Burton is a more subtle designer than that.

Instead of rewatching Breakfast at Tiffany’s, Alexander McQueen’s protege-turned-successor studied old photographs of Hubert de Givenchy’s first show, in 1952. She was struck by the minimalism of “stripped back, not fussy” clothes, she told Vogue before the show. “It is quite clean, quite pure, obviously postwar,” she said.

Continue reading...

Roksanda channels sculptor Phyllida Barlow at London fashion week show

Teetering designs, upside-down fabrics and garments made from offcuts created a feel of topsy-turvy drama

Where can you find the author Daphne du Maurier and the sculptor Phyllida Barlow, along with the actor Tippi Hedren and the costume designer Edith Head? Only at London fashion week.

All four women were muses for designers on the third day of catwalks. Barlow’s uncompromising art was the inspiration at Roksanda, where vast ballgowns in bright felt wobbled perilously on the 16th floor of an empty brutalist office block, channeling the audacious spirit of Barlow’s teetering towers of fabric, rope, chicken wire or papier-mache.

Continue reading...

Vivienne Westwood fashion house faces questions over homophobic bullying claims against CEO

Exclusive: Independent investigation in 2023 upheld five allegations against Carlo D’Amario, the Guardian understands

From her 1975 “gay cowboys” T-shirt to pioneering catwalk collections that challenged gender norms, the late Vivienne Westwood has long been heralded as an LGBT+ icon.

But the fashion house she built over five decades faces serious questions about whether the late designer’s values have endured, after allegations about homophobic bullying by its chief executive, Carlo D’Amario, were upheld by an independent investigation, the Guardian understands.

Continue reading...

A grand exit: why four-figure coats have become a high street fixture

From John Lewis to Cos, high street stores are selling coats costing more than £1,000 in a move to cast themselves as ‘luxe’ brands

If you were given £1,000 to splurge on the high street, what would you buy? Perhaps a head-to-toe new season wardrobe from Zara? Enough knitwear to see you through several winters, or maybe a lifetime supply of socks from Marks & Spencer?

Whatever you decide, you’d need to factor in the cost of a taxi to lug all those bags back from the shops. Or at least, once upon a time you would. These days, a grand is easy to spend on a single item – and it’s all thanks to the rise of the four-figure coat.

Continue reading...

Naomi Campbell claims she did not know of financial misconduct at charity

Supermodel alleges ‘concerted deception’ by fellow trustee kept her in dark over running of Fashion for Relief

The supermodel Naomi Campbell has claimed she knew nothing of the extensive financial misconduct and mismanagement at the anti-poverty fashion charity she created and sat on the board of for more than five years.

Campbell was disqualified from running a charity in May 2024, before the publication of a devastating watchdog report that revealed a trail of administrative chaos, misuse of charity funds, and chaotic record-keeping.

Continue reading...

Dior’s British designer Kim Jones awarded knighthood in Paris

Artistic director collects award at Paris fashion week while rumour mill suggests Gucci, Burberry or Margiela move

Friday afternoon in Paris was a big one for the British designer Kim Jones. The artistic director not only presented his latest menswear collection for Dior, he also collected the prestigious Chevalier de la Légion d’honneur, a rarity for someone from outside France. In a fashion moment par excellence, the award was presented to him by Anna Wintour, becoming a knight in the process.

Jones has been at Dior for six years, designing the brand’s menswear collections. During that time, he has explored the brand’s rich archive and also personal interests, including TS Eliot’s The Waste Land and Vanessa Bell’s house Charleston in east Sussex. This show was no different. It took Christian Dior’s mid-50s Ligne H collection as its jump-off, but made Casanova – the 18th-century Italian author known for his multiple relationships with women – its muse.

Continue reading...

Mined diamonds are a waste of money, an expert says. Here’s why

Lab-grown diamonds sell for one-quarter of the price of traditional ones and an Australian wholesale broker says he can’t tell the difference

When Steve Richards, a gemologist trained to identify grades of precious jewels, was considering a Christmas present for his wife, he settled on a pair of diamond earrings.

These diamonds, however, were not formed deep in the Earth over millions or billions of years and brought to the surface through volcanic eruptions. They were grown in a lab over a matter of weeks and bought for a fraction of the price.

Continue reading...

Birkenstock sues ‘copycat’ rivals claiming its sandals are applied art

German maker of fashionable cork-based footwear files three lawsuits alleging copyright infringement

Once sneered at as the preserve of muesli-loving, Guardian-reading hippies, Birkenstocks have more recently been promoted to the status of fashion item, not least since they took a starring role in the Barbie movie. But now cork-soled sandals are facing their day in court as their German makers call for them to be protected in perpetuity – and to be recognised as nothing less than a unique work of art.

Germany’s federal court of justice is to decide on the future of the ergonomic sandal after three lawsuits against alleged copycat competitors were lodged on Thursday by the footwear manufacturer.

Continue reading...

Italian fashion designer and ‘colour genius’ Rosita Missoni dies aged 93

Founder of renowned knitwear brand was at forefront of bringing Italian ready-to-wear industry to global market

Rosita Missoni, the esteemed Italian fashion designer who co-founded the eponymous knitwear brand, has died aged 93.

Internationally admired for her colourful fashion house, which she established with her husband, Ottavio, in 1953, Missoni came to be regarded as fashion royalty for being one of a group of designers who brought the Italian ready-to-wear industry to a global market in the 1950s and 60s.

Continue reading...

Katy Perry wins appeal in trademark legal case against Sydney fashion label Katie Perry

Australian designer says she is devastated and heartbroken by US singer’s successful appeal, adding ‘trademark isn’t worth the paper it’s printed on’

International popstar Katy Perry has had a court win in her long-running trademark battle with an Australian fashion designer over her Katie Perry trademark loungewear.

Sydney designer Katie Jane Taylor, who sells clothes under her birth name Katie Perry , sued the singer in October 2019 because the performer was selling her own merchandise.

Sign up for Guardian Australia’s breaking news email

Continue reading...

Burberry’s turnaround chief plans £40m cuts and ‘scarf bar’ rollout

Shares in fashion brand jump as ‘urgent’ cost-cutting programme announced following half-year losses

Burberry has unveiled a £40m cost-cutting programme as its new chief executive pledged to “stabilise the business” with a turnaround plan aimed at reviving the fortunes of the ailing British luxury fashion brand.

Joshua Schulman, the former Coach boss who replaced his ousted predecessor, Jonathan Akeroyd, in July, said the company was “acting with urgency” after straying too far from its roots of “timeless core collections” and outerwear, including trench coats and scarves with its distinctive Burberry check.

Continue reading...

US model ‘elated’ that sexual assault suit against agency boss revived in New York

Carré Otis speaks after court reverses decision and rules lawsuit accusing Gérald Marie of rape in Paris can proceed

The American model Carré Otis has said she is “elated” her sexual assault lawsuit against the former modeling agency boss Gérald Marie and New York talent agent Trudi Tapscott was revived by a federal appeals court more than two years after a crushing dismissal.

“Definitely mixed feelings and really elated,” Otis told the Guardian in her first interview since the ruling earlier this week, when asked how she felt about the US second circuit court of appeals reversing a lower court’s decision.

Continue reading...

Burberry shares rise after reports Moncler is considering bid

Head of LVMH, an investor in Italy’s Moncler, reportedly keen to get deal done with British luxury brand

Shares in Burberry have risen by more than 7% after reports suggested Italian rival Moncler may be considering a bid for the British luxury fashion brand.

The spike came after the trade journal Miss Tweed reported that Moncler, which also owns Stone Island, was looking at a potential acquisition of Burberry, which has struggled as demand for luxury goods has fallen.

Continue reading...

Louis Vuitton owner LVMH reports surprise sales drop amid China slowdown

Shares in LVMH, which also owns Dior, Tiffany and Moët & Chandon, fell by as much as 7%, briefly hitting two-year low

Shares in luxury goods brands slumped after Louis Vuitton’s LVMH reported an unexpected fall in third-quarter sales amid China’s economic slowdown.

Shares in LVMH, which also owns Dior, Tiffany and Moët & Chandon, fell by as much as 7% in early trading, briefly hitting a two-year low, before regaining slightly, after it warned of an “uncertain economic and geopolitical environment”,with falling sales in Asia.

Continue reading...

Mulberry’s owner rejects increased £111m bid from Mike Ashley’s Frasers Group

Majority owner, Challice, says it has no interest in selling shares to group that already owns 37% of luxury brand

The owner of the Mulberry fashion brand has rejected an increased £111m bid from Mike Ashley’s Frasers Group to buy the British luxury handbag maker, saying it has “no interest” in selling its shares.

Challice, a group controlled by Singaporean entrepreneur Christina Ong and her husband, Ong Beng Seng, which owns 56% of Mulberry – giving it the power to block any bid – called on Frasers to ditch plans to take over, saying it came at an “inopportune time” for the struggling brand.

Continue reading...

Naomi Campbell admits failures at fashion charity but denies misconduct

Campbell ‘accepts her accountability’, says spokesperson after watchdog’s scathing report about Fashion for Relief

Naomi Campbell has admitted she failed in her duties as a trustee at the Fashion for Relief charity she founded – but has insisted she never engaged in financial misconduct or used the charity for personal gain during its chaotic nine-year existence.

Campbell was last week banned from running a charity for five years after a scathing report found she and her two fellow trustees were culpable for multiple incidents of serious misconduct and financial mismanagement.

Continue reading...

Dressing for the dancefloor: creative explosion behind 80s’ most colourful club

Fashion Museum exhibition charts how shortlived Taboo and its founder, Leigh Bowery, inspired decade’s fashion

With ITV’s drama Joan on our screens and the bubble skirt back on the catwalks, the 80s are once again having a moment. An exhibition at London’s Fashion Museum, Outlaws: Fashion Renegades of 80s London, takes a different look – by going deep into the creative explosion on the dancefloors of the decade.

It focuses on Taboo, a London club that lasted barely a year but was pivotal in the careers of people including the singer Boy George, the designers John Galliano and Katharine Hamnett, the choreographer Michael Clark and the performance artist Leigh Bowery, who started the club in 1985.

Continue reading...

One in three Australians throwing unwanted clothes in rubbish, survey finds

RMIT-led study recommends a national recycling scheme to reduce the 200,000 tonnes of textiles sent to landfill each year

Most Australians are confused about what to do with their unwanted clothes, leading about a third to throw their closet clutter in the rubbish, according to the first national survey of clothing use and disposal habits.

The RMIT-led survey of 3,080 Australians found 84% of people owned garments they hadn’t worn in the past year, including a third who hadn’t touched more than half of their wardrobe.

Sign up for Guardian Australia’s breaking news email

Continue reading...