The curse of Masakado: why Tokyo is still haunted by a malevolent ghost

The tale of the ‘first samurai’ whose severed head still terrorises Tokyoites today is the story of the city itself

A Tokyo bank once opened an account in the name of a man who had been dead for 1,000 years.

The bank was a branch of Tokyo-Mitsubishi UFJ (now part of MUFG, the largest bank in Japan), which looked out over a neighbouring lot that contained the grave where the man was buried. The bank employees were reportedly instructed not to open any windows to the man’s grave, nor to turn their backs on it, even when at their desks; the account was set up to placate him.

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Tokyo 2020: U-turn as hotels agree to wheelchair rooms for Paralympics

Promise by Japan that rooms will stay accessible as Paralympics legacy follows Guardian revelation that hotels wanted payment for conversions

The Japanese government has promised that all hotel rooms that are converted to make them accessible for wheelchair visitors to the 2020 Paralympics will now remain accessible as a legacy of the Games.

The pledge comes after the Guardian revealed in April that British Paralympic officials were stunned when hotels near their training camp in Yokohama, south of Tokyo, demanded they pay to make rooms accessible – and then pay again to convert them back afterwards.

One senior figure said the problem had been a “huge headache” for more than 18 months until the authorities in Yokohama, part of the Greater Tokyo metro area, finally agreed to help. What made the issue harder to solve is that it was beyond the remit of the Tokyo 2020 organising committee or government. Rather, it was down to individual hotels – many of which did not see the social or economic benefits of providing more accessible rooms.

However, the Japanese government insists the issue is now “obsolete”. Jun Mitarai, part of the cabinet secretariat that co-ordinates Olympics planning, said: “After the refurbishments, the hotel rooms will not go back to the original state. That is an agreement between the Yokohama city and the hotels. The rooms will be left as a legacy.”

Mitarai said the government was also addressing concerns from the International Paralympics Committee (IPC) about the lack of accessible rooms in Tokyo by introducing new legislation to ensure all new hotels cater more for people with disabilities, with at least 1% of rooms accessible if the building has more than 50 rooms.

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Tokyo’s tipping point: is the impenetrable city finally opening up?

As Japan’s capital welcomes immigrants and prepares to host the Olympics, 2019 could be the year the world’s largest megalopolis goes truly global

On a warm May evening in the narrow alleys of Omoide Yokocho (Memory Lane) next to the Kabukicho district of Tokyo, tourists perched on stools study English-language menus offering skewers of grilled meat and vegetables. Others crowd into the garish, glowing Robot Restaurant, a cavernous hall of flashing neon and dancing animatronic figures, or snap selfies in front of the giant replica head of the city’s sci-fi nemesis, Godzilla. In neighbouring Shibuya they drive convoys of go-karts through the streets wearing costumes bearing a suspicious resemblance to Mario, Luigi and the other Mario Kart characters. (Last week Nintendo successfully sued the “MariCar” company for copyright infringement for the second time.)

After many decades as a famously impenetrable city to visitors, Japan’s capital is finally beginning to face outward. Tourism, particularly from China but also western countries, rose to record levels last year, and next summer the city will slide open its doors for the Olympics and Paralympics. The country has relaxed its restrictive immigration rules, a move that promises to transform Tokyo. The capital is already dotted with co-working spaces, artisanal coffee shops, international brand boutiques and the other accoutrements of a “global” city.

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Fukushima diary, part two: overwhelming kindness and a new home

The mayor of Okuma, home of the damaged nuclear power plant, has been in exile for eight years – here he writes about finally returning

The residents of Okuma were among more than 150,000 people who were forced to flee their homes after the March 2011 triple meltdown at the Fukushima Daiichi nuclear power plant. As one of the wrecked plant’s two host towns, Okuma was abandoned for eight years before authorities declared that radiation levels had fallen to safe levels, allowing residents to return. Even now, 60% of Okuma remains off limits, and only a tiny fraction of the pre-disaster population of 11,500 has returned since their former neighbourhoods were given the all clear in April. A month later, Okuma’s mayor, Toshitsuna Watanabe, and his colleagues returned to work at a new town hall. In the second of a three-part diary for the Guardian, Watanabe recalls the search for a temporary home for Okuma’s nuclear evacuees.

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High heels at work are necessary, says Japan’s labour minister

Ministry responds to #KuToo petition calling for end to women having to wear heels at work

Japan’s health and labour minister has defended workplaces that require women to wear high heels to work, arguing it is “necessary and appropriate” after a petition was filed against the practice.

The remark came when Takumi Nemoto was asked to comment on a petition by a group of women who want the government to ban workplaces from requiring female jobseekers and employees to wear high heels.

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Fukushima diary, part one: ‘I’m finally home’

The mayor of Okuma, home of the damaged nuclear power plant, has been in exile for eight years – here he writes about finally returning

The residents of Okuma were among more than 150,000 people who were forced to flee their homes after the March 2011 triple meltdown at the Fukushima Daiichi nuclear power plant. As one of the wrecked plant’s two host towns, Okuma, was abandoned for eight years before authorities declared that radiation levels had fallen to safe levels, allowing residents to return. Even now, 60% of Okuma remains off-limits, and only a tiny fraction of the pre-disaster population of 11,500 has returned since their former neighbourhoods were given the all clear in April. A month later, Okuma’s mayor, Toshitsuna Watanabe, and his colleagues returned to work at a new town hall. In the first of a three-part diary for the Guardian, Watanabe describes his feelings when, after years of displacement, he and other residents ended their nuclear exile.

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‘Out of sight’: White House reportedly steers USS John McCain away from Trump

Officials wanted ship bearing the name of Trump’s nemesis blocked from view during president’s trip to Japan

The White House made it clear that Donald Trump was not to catch sight of a warship named after his Republican nemesis, the late Arizona senator John McCain, during his visit to a naval base in Japan this week, according to media reports.

Citing an email dated 15 May from an official at the US Indo-Pacific Command to US navy and air force officials, the Wall Street Journal said the USS John McCain “needs to be out of sight” during Trump’s Memorial Day visit to Yokosuka base on Tuesday, the final day of his state visit to Japan.

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Japan stabbing: two dead and 15 injured in attack on children in Kawasaki

Young children were waiting for school bus when they were attacked by a man, witnesses say

Two people have died and 16 others, including more than a dozen schoolgirls, have been injured after a man armed with at least one knife went on a stabbing rampage at a crowded bus stop near Tokyo on Tuesday morning.

Japanese media said a 12-year-old girl and man aged 39 had died in hospital from their injuries. The attacker, a 57-year-old man, also died after reportedly stabbing himself following the attack near a park in the city of Kawasaki, south of the capital.

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Man dies on Aeromexico flight after swallowing 246 packets of cocaine

Japanese national flying from Bogota to Tokyo is declared dead from an overdose

A Japanese man with 246 packets of cocaine in his stomach and intestines died mid-flight on his way from Bogota to Tokyo, authorities have said in northern Mexico where the plane made an emergency landing.

The 42-year-old man, identified only as Udo N, began having a seizure after the commercial flight from the Colombian capital made a stopover in Mexico City, the prosecutor’s office for the state of Sonora said. “Flight attendants noticed a person suffering convulsions and requested permission to make an emergency landing in Hermosillo, Sonora,” it said.

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Trump becomes first US president to watch sumo wrestlers battle it out in Japan – video

Donald Trump presented a trophy to the winner of a sumo tournament, turning to personal diplomacy for the second day of a Japan visit shadowed by tough trade talk. But it was all smiles as the two leaders watched giant sumo wrestlers grapple on the final day of a 15-day tournament won by rising star Asanoyama. Trump, the first US president to watch sumo in the sport's homeland, waved to the audience as he entered the hallowed Kokugikan arena and then saluted them with applause as they waved and raised their phones to take photos. 

Trump fetes sumo champ in Japan before grappling with trade

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Trump fetes sumo champ in Japan before grappling with trade

Visit to sumo wrestling’s spiritual home followed by golf and burgers as Abe tries to keep president on side

On one side of the sumo ring stood a tall, hefty man with an unconventional hairstyle, bowing and smiling as the crowd applauded; opposite Donald Trump stood a professional wrestler, who on Sunday became the first recipient of a winner’s trophy awarded by the US president during his state visit to Japan.

Trump had been spared the agony of watching the last five bouts of the 15-day tournament in the customary manner – seated cross-legged on a thin cushion. Instead, sumo authorities broke with tradition and provided near-ringside armchairs for the president and the first lady, Melania, and the Japanese prime minister, Shinzō Abe, and his wife, Akie.

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Trump brushes off North Korea’s launch of ‘some small weapons’

President says recent missile tests bother some people, but not him, and praises regime for calling Joe Biden ‘a fool of low IQ’

Donald Trump has dismissed concerns about North Korea’s recent missile tests, calling them “small weapons”, a day after his national security adviser said there was no doubt the launches violated UN security council resolutions.

The US president tweeted on Sunday: “North Korea fired off some small weapons, which disturbed some of my people, and others, but not me. I have confidence that Chairman Kim will keep his promise to me”.

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Trump arrives in Japan for ceremonial visit and trade talks

Visit will stress ties between the two countries as tensions over exports rise amid the US-China trade war

Donald Trump and his wife, Melania, landed in Japan on Saturday for a largely ceremonial visit meant to showcase strong ties with Tokyo even as trade tensions loom.

The Japanese prime minister, Shinzo Abe, will treat Trump to an imperial banquet and front-row seats at a sumo tournament during the trip, which lasts until Tuesday.

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‘Stop it!’ Japanese women turn to app to stop groping on trains

Digi Police enables victims of molesters to notify fellow passengers of harassment

Almost two decades after the introduction of women-only train carriages, female commuters in Japan are turning to technology to tackle molesters on packed rush-hour trains.

The Digi Police app enables victims of groping to activate a voice shouting “Stop it!” at ear-piercing volume or bring up a full-screen message reading, “There is a molester. Please help” that they can show to other passengers.

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Last name first, first name last: Japan minister tells foreign media to get it right

Taro Kono – or is it Kono Taro? – says journalists should treat Japanese politicians the same as their Chinese or South Korean equivalents

Japan’s foreign minister will ask international media organisations to use the family name first when writing Japanese names – as is customary in the Japanese language – in an attempt to reverse a century of linguistic convention.

Taro Kono – or perhaps that should be Kono Taro – said foreign media should follow the same practice they use when reporting on other Asian countries where the family name traditionally comes first, followed by their given name. As an example, he said Japan’s prime minister, Shinzo Abe, should in future be written as Abe Shinzo.

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Japanese man prepares for landmark case against dolphin hunts

Taiji resident will testify in attempt to ban activity as part of charity’s legal challenge

A man from Taiji, the Japanese fishing town whose annual slaughter of dolphins has drawn widespread condemnation, will appear in court on Friday in an unprecedented legal challenge to the hunts.

In an exclusive interview with the Guardian, the plaintiff, who has asked not to be named until the hearing has concluded, said he had been been ostracised in Taiji, where he was born and raised but decided to speak out against the hunts.

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Rugby World Cup committee warns Japan not to run out of beer

Issue was raised as part of briefing sessions in cities tipped to deal with the largest influx of international visitors

It’s the stuff of nightmares for rugby fans: organisers of the upcoming World Cup in Japan have raised fears that bars and restaurants in host cities could run out of beer during the tournament.

As part of the planning for the 2019 Rugby World Cup, the organising committee has urged business operators to order in sufficient quantities of beer to avoid upsetting travelling fans, Japan’s Jiji Press agency reported.

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Japan’s new emperor Naruhito formally ascends to throne in brief ceremony – video

Naruhito formally ascends to the throne in a brief ceremony after his father, Akihito, ended his 30-year reign as head of the world's oldest continuing hereditary monarchy. On Wednesday, Naruhito took symbolic possession of the imperial regalia – a sacred sword and jewel – which were concealed inside decoratively wrapped boxes. No female members of the imperial family were permitted to attend, after the government controversially decided to honour precedents set by previous accession rites

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Japan welcomes new emperor Naruhito as Reiwa era begins

Emperor Naruhito promises to continue path trodden by his father, ‘sharing in the joys and sorrows of the people’

Japan’s new emperor, Naruhito, has said he is “filled with solemnity” and vowed to show the same compassion and devotion to the public as his father, in a ceremony to formally recognise his accession to the chrysanthemum throne.

“When I think about the important responsibility I have assumed, I am filled with a sense of solemnity,” he said in a ceremony at the imperial palace, joined on the dais by his wife, Empress Masako.

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